(This story is slightly edited from a piece that originally appeared in the Port Rowan Good News)
The island is an archipelago with miles of beaches. However, if you are looking for a vacation spot to sit on the beach Haida Gwaii is not for you.
But, if you yearn for an adventure that offers a chance to view aquatic, marine and bird species not found in eastern Canada; learn more about Haida Gwaii culture; and take a break from the internet this might be the place for you.
Haidi Gwaii, formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands, is about 900 Kilometres north of Vancouver. It is separated from mainland British Columbia by the Hecate Strait. The west coast of Haida Gwaii lies on the Pacific Ocean.
We travelled there in early June. Following a two-hour flight on Pacific Coastal Airlines from Vancouver we landed in Masset. Over the next 24 hours we enjoyed three wonderful meals, visited the impressive Haida Heritage Centre at Ḵay Llnagaay and spent a restful night at JAGS oceanfront guest house in Daajing Giids.
After a day on land, our group eagerly boarded the Cascadia. Maple Leaf Adventures describes their expedition ship as “a go-anywhere catamaran.”
| Cascadia |
From the ship and tenders we had up close looks of sea otters, sea lions, and various birds.
The on-board naturalist
s and Haida guide travelling with us were experienced and extremely knowledgeable about the natural world. Unfamiliar to us invertebrates like purple hinged scallops and fried egg jellyfish were part of a long list observed and documented in the trip book on display in the ship’s comfy salon.
Some Haida Gwaii History
The Haida have inhabited this area for at least 13,000 years. Archaeological evidence confirms continuous settlement for 6,000–8,000 years, we learn. But the 19th century was a bleak one. Diseases like smallpox, brought by European settlers, devastated villages and reduced the population from 20,000 in the mid-1700s to less than 600 by the late 19th century according to some estimates.
Haida Gwaii cultural practices like the Potlatch were forbidden by the government of Canada from 1885 to 1951. (The Potlatch is a traditional ceremony of the Haida people vital to the governance structures of some Indigenous Peoples). This prohibition resulted in many totem poles being destroyed, stolen and/or shipped to museums.
Today watchmen are posted at the five village sites from spring to fall. They are there to protect these areas and act as ambassadors between Nations by educating visitors about Haida heritage and the history of the site they’re visiting.
During our trip we hiked to a giant Sitka Spruce, estimated to be between 800 and 900 years old. Pictured here, it took eleven members of our group to encircle it.
This was at Windy Bay on Lyell Island. Some readers will recall Haida protests against logging on this island in 1985. Seventy-two individuals were arrested but the blockade led to the creation of Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site.
The legacy pole here tells the story of how Canada and the Haida Nation came together through an historic agreement to protect Gwaii Haanas “from sea floor to mountain top.” Those who participated in the 1985 protests, visitors, archaeologists, Haida Gwaii Watchmen, Haida Ravens and Eagles, are all represented on the pole.
One day, on the bridge of Cascadia speaking with the Captain, I noted that we had not seen any other boats that day. No, there was one, he corrected me.
A peaceful trip and did I mention no internet?
The Cascadia has seven trips to Haidi Gwaii planed next spring and summer. Maple Leaf Adventures also has several similar expeditions on its schooner the Maple Leaf.


